Custom Suit Fabrics – Step-by-Step

MASTERING CUSTOM SUIT FABRICS: STEP-BY-STEP

Phew.

Did you make it through all those sections?

It's okay if you didn't — skimming here or there isn't the end of the world. But you might still click back and re-read any parts you have questions about when we go over each step, one by one, in this final section.

Ready? Here's how to select a custom suit fabric, step-by-step:

Step 1: Choose Your Color

Don't worry about fabric or texture or any of that yet. When people look at you in your new custom suit, what are they going to see? A man in a deep navy suit? A light camelhair suit? A bright neon green suit? You make the call.

Color:

•      is determined by dye or the natural color of the wool.
•      affects the formality of the suit.
•      affects how the suit goes with your complexion.
•      affects how the suit will go with shirts, ties, etc.
•      rarely affects cost.

Step 2: Choose Your Pattern

The color you chose in Step 1 can be the base color, the only color, or an illusion produced by a pattern that closely blends two colors (such as a black-and-white houndstooth appearing gray at a distance). It's the second-most obvious feature of your suit, especially from far away.

Pattern:

•      can be woven, dyed directly onto cloth, or made by colored stitching.
•      affects the formality of the suit, usually reducing it.
•      affects which body types the suit will look best on.
•      affects how the suit will go with shirts, ties, etc.
•      rarely affects cost.

Step 3: Select a Texture – How Luxurious to the Touch?

Many different factors affect the texture and the drape of a cloth. Find one that matches your tastes and your budget. The weight and the fineness of the wool (or other materials) used is important in determining texture, and this is where descriptions often become the most technical.

Texture:

•      is influenced by the raw material, type and weight of thread, and weave.
•      also includes weight, which affects the suit's comfort.
•      affects how the suit “drapes” on your body.
•      can reduce the durability of the suit if it is very light/fine.
•      can affect cost, if it comes from the weave or the material used.

Step 4: Understand Your Rare and Costly Options

Luxury suits don't have to be made of sheep's wool. Specific materials and weaves are more expensive, and have their own unique advantages. Determine whether an exotic material is worth it for your needs.

Rare and Exotic Materials:

•      can be difficult to produce, scarce in supply, or both.
•      often provide a lighter or softer garment than ordinary wool.
•      can incur stiff protective tariffs in some countries.
•      are inherently a status symbol among those who recognize them.
•      raise the cost of a suit substantially.

Step 5: Select a Weave

This will make the most dramatic difference to you as the wearer. Most suitings fall into a few broad categories of weaves, but within each category are variations that affect both the appearance and the physical structure of the suit.

Weaves:

•      affect how smooth or rough the texture of the suit is.
•      affect the weight and drape of the suit.
•      can have a distinctive visual pattern of their own, or can appear smooth.
•      affect the durability of the suit and how it stretches over time.
•      can require specialized care if they are very delicate.
•      can affect the cost, particularly if they are labor-intensive or specialized.

Step 6: Select Your Basic Type of Fabric

Most quality suits are 100% wool. Other materials have their own advantages and disadvantages, and it's worth knowing what your choices are.

Fabric type:

•      affects the weight, texture, durability, and breathability of the suit.
•      is primarily limited to wool, cotton, and linen.
•      can occasionally include more exotic or artificial materials.
•      has a significant effect on cost.

Step 7: Consider the Traditional Business Fabrics

We provided a list of the most common business suit fabrics. They are not your only option, but if you are considering a first custom suit, or a suit for regular business purposes, it is worth knowing what the classic options are.
Business fabrics:

•      range from very formal to “casual Friday” options.
•      are usually a gray, blue, or black fabric, though brown is sometimes acceptable.
•      usually make up the majority of a tailor's selection.
•      are a good starting place for most custom suit buyers.
•      vary in cost based on other factors.

Step 8: Satisfy Yourself about the Manufacturing

If you like everything else about a bolt of cloth, examine its manufacturing before you have a suit made out of it. Men may want to check both the quality of the cloth and the business practices of the supplier to make sure that both are up to acceptable standards.

Manufacturing:

•      directly affects the quality and durability of the cloth.
•      may have ethical considerations relating to labor and the environment.
•      affects cost, with cheaper products often less reliably manufactured.

Step 9: Have the Suit Made

If you've satisfied yourself on each of these points, you should have a single, specific cloth picked out. Congratulations — you're ready to be measured and have your suit made.

We hope this guide has been useful, and encourage you to check out its companion, our guide to Custom Shirt Fabrics. Enjoy your suit!