CHECKLIST: HOW TO BUY AN OVERCOAT
_____Step 1: Figure Your Size
If you already know your coat size, you can skip this step.
_____Measure your chest circumference the same way you would for a suit sizing: wrap a tape measure around the broadest part of your chest, usually just under the armpits on most men. Round up to the next whole number in inches.
Chest Measurement: __________
Most companies size their overcoats to fit over a man wearing a suit of the same size. So if you wear a 36R or 36L suit, you should be able to wear a 36 overcoat as well — it will be cut more generously to allow room for the clothes underneath
Men buying custom overcoats, on the other hand, will want to take measurements in a suit (or whatever clothing they plan on wearing under their overcoat) and using those numbers. We recommend using a detailed measurement guide that takes chest, waist, and additional measurements into account, such as the one at A Tailored Suit.
_____Step 2: Identify the Coat You Want
_____Select a style of coat:
o Chesterfield — single-breasted, knee-length style with short lapels
o Crombie — soft-shouldered, thigh-length wool overcoat
o Polo coat — double-breasted, belted coat with large lapels
o Trenchcoat — loose, casual coat with belt and epaulets
o Peacoat — flared, waist-length naval style with lapels
o Duffel coat — thick, military-style wool overcoat with a built-in hood
_____Select a fabric
o Worsted wool — dressy and flattering; typical of fine coats
o Wool flannel — thick, soft wool; common overcoat material
o Tweed — coarse, hairy wool; more casual than worsted or flannel
o Waxed cotton — casual, sturdy option; traditional trenchcoat material
o Leather — very informal option; not recommended for long coats
_____Choose a color:
o Dark gray, navy blue, or black — most formal business options
o Dark browns, blues, and greens — traditional overcoat colors
o Khaki/camelhair — common business-casual option
o Brighter colors or patterns– casual/social wear only
Shopping for overcoats is usually fairly simple. Once you know the style, fabric, and color you want, there should only be a few brands or options to choose from. Don't be afraid to check a few different places — if you've got a good idea what kind of coat you're looking for, it will only take a few minutes at each stop to see what your options are.
_____Step 3: Pick Your Source
_____Identify the kind of tailoring and construction you want:
o Bespoke (completely custom made — most expensive option)
o Made-to-measure (a pre-made pattern sized specifically to you)
o Ready-to-wear (pre-sized off the rack; some stores do in-house adjustments)
_____Select a type of store:
o Department stores (Sears, Macy's, etc. — low prices, but limited selection/quality)
o Menswear chains (Men's Wearhouse, Jos. A. Banks, etc. — wider selection and better in-house service/fitting)
o Independent coat stores (large selections, often have markdowns/sales; quality can vary widely)
o Independent boutiques (unique selections; tend to have better service and quality)
o Bespoke tailors (custom design and construction)
o Online (you send your measurements and payment; they ship you the coat — can require several back-and-forth shipments to get fit right)
_____Step 4: Go Shopping
_____Head to your target store or stores (see step 3)
_____Identify the coats that fit your selected description (see step 2)
_____Within that selection, find the coats that fit your measurements (step 1)
With the information in this checklist, you should be able your selection down to just a few overcoats. Find the one that suits you best at the price you like — or move on, if you need to, and use the same information to shop elsewhere, until you find a purchase you like.
